Hey all, maybe someone can give me an idea of how to proceed.

Some info: I created a movie + live music show and we have performed it only once in a small cinema. We use two MacBooks, one on stage (with Ableton for all the audio, click, cues, etc) and one in the projection room (with Isadora and the movie itself, subtitles, etc). The whole thing is connected via timecode over audio.

But apart from all that, I also used an instance of Isadora on the stage MacBook to control the stage lights. It was very simple, just MIDI info from Ableton to Isadora dealing with a main dimmer and some color changes. Then this was sent to my DMX Enttec PRO and straight into the eight PAR Leds by the stage sides. It all worked smoothly.

But here's the thing: we got an unexpected call to do the show in a big theater, about a month from now. They have loads of lights (7 DMX universes) and an ETC EOS Gio. And now I'm not really sure how to rework my system into this new setting. The light controls now have to be on the OTHER MacBook because of the distance, but that one will not be running Ableton to send the MIDI (and even if it was, it would not sync up with the timecode)

Any ideas? I'm looking into other stuff I don't really know about like MIDI Show Control.

@emullis

I'm very confused now that it worked without gloves for you, as we apparently had an issue in our database that said that Rokoko crashes with the Rokoko SmartSuit Pro II if you're not using gloves, but then we resolved it because it looked like the problem was resolved.

If we can't reproduce it reliably, we can't make a fix, so we need to isolate what causes and doesn't cause it.

Between it crashing, then not crashing, then crashing again, did you do anything like:

Plugging in the suit while streaming instead of using wifiChanging the network the suit was onChanging the network your computer was onChanging the port being usedUn-checking and re-checking streaming in RokokoUsing a different Scene in RokokoUnassigning and/or re-assigning the suit from an actor in Rokoko before starting to stream dataUnassigning and/or re-assigning the suit from an actor in Rokoko while streaming dataUnassigning and/or re-assigning the suit from an actor in Rokoko after ceasing to stream dataAnything else you can think of?

Could you also try making sure that your computer is only connected to one network (the one being used for Rokoko) and disabling your computer's connection to any other networks?

If none of that seems like it affects anything, we could proceed with more tests (I wish I could do them myself, but I don't have a v2 suit).

@woland No I don't think that will help as the ports pertain to what midi device you're connecting to. Inside the sysex actor is a script you have to write, then you insert perameter values using 'P1'  'P2' etc. There are workarounds where I trigger specific sys ex actors with some characters pre determined. 

It would be a great feature to be able to put way more parameters into these actors generally. Same with the text formatter actor

@taeeix

You might try changing the video Projector actor ‘blend’ input from ‘additive’ to ‘transparent’. You could also try changing the same Projector ‘layer’ input to a higher value than the base Projector layer.

Best wishes

Russell

For anyone coming to this for answers like I did, there is now a "Float to Integer" actor that will do this. And if you're using a timer, which actually outputs in millis, divide by 1000 to get seconds first.

@jean-didier

Try:

Without Isadora open, unplug your KinectLaunch Isadorayour Isadora fileChange the 'mode' input on the OpenNI Tracker actor to 'both'Save the fileQuit IsadoraPlug in the KinectLaunch Isadora and open the file

If it works, you'll be able to use both color and depth, so you won't need to change the mode input again.

@tlaloc said:

Just to confirm, there is no way to pull the time from the scene time shown here at 0 sec?

 Correct, this value is not programmatically accessible by actors.

@tlaloc

Yes

@cacoos

It's a known cosmetic issue on newer versions of macOS with Isadora 4.1.3 and older.

This is fixed already for the release that's coming very soon.

In the meantime, you'll see that those areas are only blank when you do not have MIDI, OSC, Serial, or TCP/IP data going to or from Isadora. As soon as data is going in or out, the relevant section of the UI will update.

In its simplest form, you can do this to see what I mean:

Here's a slightly more complex example that demonstrates the same thing, but cycles through each of those four data types: DOWNLOAD

(NOTE: The MIDI won't work unless you use the settings shown in the screenshot for Communications > MIDI Setup > Port 1 > (Input and Output set to "Isadora Virtual Out")

@dusx Thanks guys.

I've used IOS Screen Mirroring to a Mac. There's an app called True Visage that hides all the phone's camera settings, just sends what the camera sees, which is handy.

Bumping this as a reminder to any Berlin-based Isadora users that this is tonight :)

ignore me - i found the solution - its the top half/bottom half active state thing. i'll make new images.

@jonesseitz

It's a mac thing, to do with privacy: it's the same green dot you see when making taking a selfie with your iPhone.
Here's one way to disable it. There may be others:

https://9to5mac.com/2026/02/14...

HTH

Mark (not that Mark)

@skuven thanks. I will check it out. 🙌

@eva said:

Ok I try again:Does this work? 

No, the links didn't work. Is it a commercial app that you can give us the name of so we can look it up? If not, and you're trying to share a custom-made app with us, you'll probably need to upload it to Google Drive/Dropbox/something similar, then share the link to that with us here.

@gpeddino

Can you share the .mp4 with me? DM me with a file share link if you can, and I will convert to HAP and test. The file should stream, but yes, it will be very large.

@dusx said:

@Woland Your thoughts?

 Agreed

@gel_mystery

A trick I use is:

Create a Control Panel with a button that takes you to the next SceneMove the cursor over that button.Put tape over the optical sensor of a wireless mouse (now the cursor cannot move off of that button).Put the mouse in your pocket, on the floor, or take it apart and make a glove that completes the left-click circuit when you put your forefinger and thumb together.Now you can slap your pocket, step on the mouse, or close your fingers (with the glove idea) to trigger things.

Further advice:

Use a USB instead of a Bluetooth mouseUse a USB-over-cat5/6 extender to put the usb receiver for the mouse above the center of the stage (for larger stages) or just closer to the stage (if your computer is already backstage and the stage is small enough for it not to matter).TEST TEST TEST! Always bench test your setup as much as possible, then test more once you're in the actual venue.

@woland YUM! thanks for sharing the future!